Kimono Terminology
To see a visual glossary of some of the basic terms, click here.
Eri (衿) – Collar. Can refer to the kimono collar, juban collar, or any other collar. Note that the kanji used for kimono is specifically 衿 and not 襟.
Fukuro obi (袋帯) – Means double fold and is a type of full width obi. This type of obi was created in the 1920's and is often patterned along 60% o the length. The back of the obi is often lined with plain silk or brocade. Because it has less pattern, the fukuro obi is less formal than the maru obi but usually cannot be differentiated from a maru obi when worn.
Furisode (振袖) – Long Sleeve. The most formal kimono worn by unmarried women. It has long, flowing sleeves.
Geta (下駄) – Wooden shoes worn with yukata, a very casual style of Japanese shoe.
Hakama (袴) – A pleated skirt worn by both men and women. They come in divided pants like umanori hakama, and undivided skirt like andon hakama.
Haneri (半衿) – Half collar. The detachable collar worn over the juban collar. Called "half" because you fold it in half over the juban collar.
Hanhaba obi (半幅帯) – Half width obi. These obi are either full-width obi sewn in half, or more commonly, constructed with half the width to begin with. This is the most casual obi and the only kind of obi worn with yukata.
Haori (羽織) – A type of open coat worn with kimono. The collars do not close, but instead hang straight down. Haori are tied shut with strings called himo.
Harimon, Haritsukemon (貼り付け紋) – Pasted Family Crest. A family crest that can be bought separately and pasted on to a kimono. Often used to replace crests on a vintage kimono, to add a crest to a kimono that doesn't have one, or if there is damage to a crest, a harimon can be pasted on top to revive the mon. Can be considered of "lower quality" because it is pasted onto an already finished kimono instead of dyed onto it directly (or sewn onto it).
Hikizuri (引摺り) – Trailing skirt. Sometimes called more politely "o-hikizuri" (お引摺り). A long kimono for dance that has a slightly padded hem. This is also the kind of kimono that geisha and maiko wear. Also known as a susohiki (裾引き).
Hiyoku (比翼) – In the past, women wore an additional white kimono layer under their outter kimono, called hiyoku. While essentially no modern kimono are not worn with hiyoku any more, some formal kimono still have an extra layer of fabric attached to the collar, cuffs, and hem to imitate wearing a hiyoku underneath. This is called a tsuke-hiyoku (付け比翼) or attached hiyoku. The majority of kurotomesode will have tsuke-hiyoku. In fact, according to many kimono professionals, if a kurotomesode does not have tsuke-hiyoku, then it cannot be considered very formal and it drops to the formality level of houmongi. Therefore, it is not recommended to wear kurotomesode without this.
Houmongi (訪問着) – Visiting clothes. A type of kimono that has a pattern along the bottom hem and on the sleeves. The pattern is continuous across the seams of the kimono. It is a very formal kimono meant for married and unmarried women. If the pattern is not continuous, it is categorized as a tsukesage. The distinction between tsukesage and houmongi can sometimes be difficult to determine.
Iromuji (色無地) – Plain color. A type of kimono with one solid color. This is a semi-formal kimono that can be more or less formal depending on the number of crests.
Irotomesode (色留袖) – Tomesode kimono only have a pattern along the bottom hem. Iro tomesode kimono can be any color except for black. Black tomesode are called kurotomesode. Irotomesode are slightly less formal than kurotomesode (the most formal kimono for married women).
Juban (襦袢) – The undergarment worn underneath a kimono to protect the fabric from touching your skin. The juban collar will be seen when finished dressing. Women's juban often contains an opening so you can insert a collar stiffener to give the collar shape.
Kurotomesode (黒留袖) – The most formal kimono for married women. This kimono is black with a pattern only along the hem. It is usually only worm by the mother of the bride at a wedding.
Kimono (着物) – Thing to Wear. In the past, it just referred to any kind of clothing. But today, it more specifically references the main outer garment of traditional Japanese clothing. Often a kimono is made of silk, cotton, or synthetic material. The basic shape is linear in nature and shaped like a T.
Kitsuke (着付け) – Dressing (especially for kimono). Kitsuke is a noun that originally just meant the process of getting dressed (or dressing someone else). But in modern times it is very often used for kimono dressing. Someone who professionally dresses others in kimono may be called a kitsuke-shi (着付けし師), or dressing person. Important to note that kitsuke is a noun, not a verb, and therefore refers to the method or process of dressing.
Komon (小紋) – Small pattern. A type of kimono with a small pattern that repeats across the entire kimono. The pattern may or may not match up across the seams.
Maru obi (丸帯) – Maru is a type of full width obi that is rarely worn today. This obi is the most formal type of obi and is completely patterned for the whole length of the obi on the front and back. Maru obi are often elaborately patterned brocade and have gold or silver threads. Because they are difficult to use (i.e. too thick and heavy), they have largely been replaced by fukuro obi.
Michiyuki (道行) – A type of kimono jacket that buttons and ties closed. It has a square, box shaped opening instead of the diagonal crossed collars of a kimono or the straight, vertical opening of a haori.
Mofuku (喪服) – Formal wear for funerals, mofuku has five crests on it. Note that mofuku may refer to kimono, or western style clothes.
Mon (紋) – A family crest, also called kamon (家紋). The number of crests signals how formal a garment is. No crests is the least formal, followed by one crest, three crests, and five crests as the most formal.
Musubi (結び) – Knot. Refers to the knot that you tie the obi into. There are many kinds of musubi that an obi can be tied in, depending on the type of obi and the formality of the kimono.
Nagoya Obi (名古屋帯) – A type of obi invented by a seamstress in Nagoya in 1920. A Nagoya obi is shorter than a fukuro obi, generally 3.6 meters compared to over 4 meters for fukuro. Generally, the section of the obi that is wrapped around the waist is sewn in half to make tying the obi easier. But this is not always the case. It is considered easier to wear than a fukuro obi, but is also slightly less formal.
Obi (帯) – The wide sash that is used to keep a kimono closed. There are many kinds: hanhaba, Nagoya, fukuro, maru, heko, and kaku.
Obi age (帯揚げ) – Obi Raise. A piece of cloth used to cover the obi makura and tied in a decorative knot in the front, above the obi.
Obi dome (帯留め) – An optional decorative piece that can be threaded onto the obi jime. When you use an obi dome, the obi jime is tied at the back and the knot is preferably hidden inside the knot of the obi.
Obi jime (帯締め) – Obi fastener. A braided cord used to hold the obi in place and tied in a decorative knot in front.
Ohashori (おはしょり) – The fold of fabric at the hips used to adjust women's kimono to the perfect length. While today, kimono schools teach us to buy kimono that are too long on purpose so that you can make an ohashori, they actually served a very important purpose in the past. Historically, women wore kimono that were very long so they could elegantly trail behind them as they walked around inside. But when they went outside, they would need to tie up the kimono so it would not drag in the dirt. And so the ohashori was born as a convenient way to keep the kimono clean. Now, we never take out the ohashori when we are inside, so it serves a mainly decorative function.
Setta (雪駄) – The most common type of men's shoes for kimono. They are categorized as a type of zori. Setta have leather soles designed to prevent water from seaping through the shoe, as traditionally zori were made from straw/grasses. Additionally, setta have metal coverings on the bottom that click as you walk. Sometimes setta is used as a generic term to reference all men's zori.
Shibori (絞り) – A method of dying fabric where the undyed fabric is tied up with string to prevent the dye from touching certain sections. Often compared to tie-dying, this process is extremely complicated and time consuming, so shibori pieces are generally very expensive.
Tansu (箪笥) – Traditionally these were portable cabinets for moving. Now, they are often used as more permanent storage for clothing, in particular kimono. They have long, narrow drawers designed to fit the size of a folded kimono.
Tatoushi (たとう紙) – Paper covers for storing kimono. The paper helps protect the kimono from moisture and damage.
Tomesode (留袖) – A formal kimono for married women with a pattern only at the hem. Comes in many colors. See irotomesode and kurotomesode.
Tsuitake Style (対丈) – Wearing kimono without an ohashori. This can mean wearing a kimono that perfectly goes to your ankles or a kimono that is even shorter. This style is popular with older, vintage kimono that are too short to be worn with an ohashori.
Tsukesage (付け下げ) – A kimono with a pattern along the hem and sleeves that does not continue across the seams. This is slightly less formal than a houmongi, where the pattern is continuous across the seams. The distinction between tsukesage and houmongi can sometimes be difficult to determine.
Uchikake (打ち掛け) – A very formal kimono signified by the heavily padded hem. It is worn over a kimono and obi and trails on the floor like a hikizuri/susohiki. The padding of an uchikake is much heavier than that on a hikizuri. Today, these are only worn over a wedding kimono or as a part of stage performances.
Yukata (浴衣) – An informal summer kimono made of cotton. These originated from the clothing worn inside at Japanese hot springs and bath houses as a bathrobe. Now it is worn during the summer at festival or other casual events.
Yuuzen (友禅) – A method of dying where a pattern is drawn on the kimono with dye resistant paste. Then the kimono is submerged in a dye bath. Once washed, the paste can be removed, revealing regions of undyed fabric. This process can then be repeated as many times as necessary to apply more colors. Similar in some ways to the process of woodblock printing.
Zori (草履) – Traditional Japanese shoes worn with women's kimono. They are more formal than geta.
Eri (衿) – Collar. Can refer to the kimono collar, juban collar, or any other collar. Note that the kanji used for kimono is specifically 衿 and not 襟.
Fukuro obi (袋帯) – Means double fold and is a type of full width obi. This type of obi was created in the 1920's and is often patterned along 60% o the length. The back of the obi is often lined with plain silk or brocade. Because it has less pattern, the fukuro obi is less formal than the maru obi but usually cannot be differentiated from a maru obi when worn.
Furisode (振袖) – Long Sleeve. The most formal kimono worn by unmarried women. It has long, flowing sleeves.
Geta (下駄) – Wooden shoes worn with yukata, a very casual style of Japanese shoe.
Hakama (袴) – A pleated skirt worn by both men and women. They come in divided pants like umanori hakama, and undivided skirt like andon hakama.
Haneri (半衿) – Half collar. The detachable collar worn over the juban collar. Called "half" because you fold it in half over the juban collar.
Hanhaba obi (半幅帯) – Half width obi. These obi are either full-width obi sewn in half, or more commonly, constructed with half the width to begin with. This is the most casual obi and the only kind of obi worn with yukata.
Haori (羽織) – A type of open coat worn with kimono. The collars do not close, but instead hang straight down. Haori are tied shut with strings called himo.
Harimon, Haritsukemon (貼り付け紋) – Pasted Family Crest. A family crest that can be bought separately and pasted on to a kimono. Often used to replace crests on a vintage kimono, to add a crest to a kimono that doesn't have one, or if there is damage to a crest, a harimon can be pasted on top to revive the mon. Can be considered of "lower quality" because it is pasted onto an already finished kimono instead of dyed onto it directly (or sewn onto it).
Hikizuri (引摺り) – Trailing skirt. Sometimes called more politely "o-hikizuri" (お引摺り). A long kimono for dance that has a slightly padded hem. This is also the kind of kimono that geisha and maiko wear. Also known as a susohiki (裾引き).
Hiyoku (比翼) – In the past, women wore an additional white kimono layer under their outter kimono, called hiyoku. While essentially no modern kimono are not worn with hiyoku any more, some formal kimono still have an extra layer of fabric attached to the collar, cuffs, and hem to imitate wearing a hiyoku underneath. This is called a tsuke-hiyoku (付け比翼) or attached hiyoku. The majority of kurotomesode will have tsuke-hiyoku. In fact, according to many kimono professionals, if a kurotomesode does not have tsuke-hiyoku, then it cannot be considered very formal and it drops to the formality level of houmongi. Therefore, it is not recommended to wear kurotomesode without this.
Houmongi (訪問着) – Visiting clothes. A type of kimono that has a pattern along the bottom hem and on the sleeves. The pattern is continuous across the seams of the kimono. It is a very formal kimono meant for married and unmarried women. If the pattern is not continuous, it is categorized as a tsukesage. The distinction between tsukesage and houmongi can sometimes be difficult to determine.
Iromuji (色無地) – Plain color. A type of kimono with one solid color. This is a semi-formal kimono that can be more or less formal depending on the number of crests.
Irotomesode (色留袖) – Tomesode kimono only have a pattern along the bottom hem. Iro tomesode kimono can be any color except for black. Black tomesode are called kurotomesode. Irotomesode are slightly less formal than kurotomesode (the most formal kimono for married women).
Juban (襦袢) – The undergarment worn underneath a kimono to protect the fabric from touching your skin. The juban collar will be seen when finished dressing. Women's juban often contains an opening so you can insert a collar stiffener to give the collar shape.
Kurotomesode (黒留袖) – The most formal kimono for married women. This kimono is black with a pattern only along the hem. It is usually only worm by the mother of the bride at a wedding.
Kimono (着物) – Thing to Wear. In the past, it just referred to any kind of clothing. But today, it more specifically references the main outer garment of traditional Japanese clothing. Often a kimono is made of silk, cotton, or synthetic material. The basic shape is linear in nature and shaped like a T.
Kitsuke (着付け) – Dressing (especially for kimono). Kitsuke is a noun that originally just meant the process of getting dressed (or dressing someone else). But in modern times it is very often used for kimono dressing. Someone who professionally dresses others in kimono may be called a kitsuke-shi (着付けし師), or dressing person. Important to note that kitsuke is a noun, not a verb, and therefore refers to the method or process of dressing.
Komon (小紋) – Small pattern. A type of kimono with a small pattern that repeats across the entire kimono. The pattern may or may not match up across the seams.
Maru obi (丸帯) – Maru is a type of full width obi that is rarely worn today. This obi is the most formal type of obi and is completely patterned for the whole length of the obi on the front and back. Maru obi are often elaborately patterned brocade and have gold or silver threads. Because they are difficult to use (i.e. too thick and heavy), they have largely been replaced by fukuro obi.
Michiyuki (道行) – A type of kimono jacket that buttons and ties closed. It has a square, box shaped opening instead of the diagonal crossed collars of a kimono or the straight, vertical opening of a haori.
Mofuku (喪服) – Formal wear for funerals, mofuku has five crests on it. Note that mofuku may refer to kimono, or western style clothes.
Mon (紋) – A family crest, also called kamon (家紋). The number of crests signals how formal a garment is. No crests is the least formal, followed by one crest, three crests, and five crests as the most formal.
Musubi (結び) – Knot. Refers to the knot that you tie the obi into. There are many kinds of musubi that an obi can be tied in, depending on the type of obi and the formality of the kimono.
Nagoya Obi (名古屋帯) – A type of obi invented by a seamstress in Nagoya in 1920. A Nagoya obi is shorter than a fukuro obi, generally 3.6 meters compared to over 4 meters for fukuro. Generally, the section of the obi that is wrapped around the waist is sewn in half to make tying the obi easier. But this is not always the case. It is considered easier to wear than a fukuro obi, but is also slightly less formal.
Obi (帯) – The wide sash that is used to keep a kimono closed. There are many kinds: hanhaba, Nagoya, fukuro, maru, heko, and kaku.
Obi age (帯揚げ) – Obi Raise. A piece of cloth used to cover the obi makura and tied in a decorative knot in the front, above the obi.
Obi dome (帯留め) – An optional decorative piece that can be threaded onto the obi jime. When you use an obi dome, the obi jime is tied at the back and the knot is preferably hidden inside the knot of the obi.
Obi jime (帯締め) – Obi fastener. A braided cord used to hold the obi in place and tied in a decorative knot in front.
Ohashori (おはしょり) – The fold of fabric at the hips used to adjust women's kimono to the perfect length. While today, kimono schools teach us to buy kimono that are too long on purpose so that you can make an ohashori, they actually served a very important purpose in the past. Historically, women wore kimono that were very long so they could elegantly trail behind them as they walked around inside. But when they went outside, they would need to tie up the kimono so it would not drag in the dirt. And so the ohashori was born as a convenient way to keep the kimono clean. Now, we never take out the ohashori when we are inside, so it serves a mainly decorative function.
Setta (雪駄) – The most common type of men's shoes for kimono. They are categorized as a type of zori. Setta have leather soles designed to prevent water from seaping through the shoe, as traditionally zori were made from straw/grasses. Additionally, setta have metal coverings on the bottom that click as you walk. Sometimes setta is used as a generic term to reference all men's zori.
Shibori (絞り) – A method of dying fabric where the undyed fabric is tied up with string to prevent the dye from touching certain sections. Often compared to tie-dying, this process is extremely complicated and time consuming, so shibori pieces are generally very expensive.
Tansu (箪笥) – Traditionally these were portable cabinets for moving. Now, they are often used as more permanent storage for clothing, in particular kimono. They have long, narrow drawers designed to fit the size of a folded kimono.
Tatoushi (たとう紙) – Paper covers for storing kimono. The paper helps protect the kimono from moisture and damage.
Tomesode (留袖) – A formal kimono for married women with a pattern only at the hem. Comes in many colors. See irotomesode and kurotomesode.
Tsuitake Style (対丈) – Wearing kimono without an ohashori. This can mean wearing a kimono that perfectly goes to your ankles or a kimono that is even shorter. This style is popular with older, vintage kimono that are too short to be worn with an ohashori.
Tsukesage (付け下げ) – A kimono with a pattern along the hem and sleeves that does not continue across the seams. This is slightly less formal than a houmongi, where the pattern is continuous across the seams. The distinction between tsukesage and houmongi can sometimes be difficult to determine.
Uchikake (打ち掛け) – A very formal kimono signified by the heavily padded hem. It is worn over a kimono and obi and trails on the floor like a hikizuri/susohiki. The padding of an uchikake is much heavier than that on a hikizuri. Today, these are only worn over a wedding kimono or as a part of stage performances.
Yukata (浴衣) – An informal summer kimono made of cotton. These originated from the clothing worn inside at Japanese hot springs and bath houses as a bathrobe. Now it is worn during the summer at festival or other casual events.
Yuuzen (友禅) – A method of dying where a pattern is drawn on the kimono with dye resistant paste. Then the kimono is submerged in a dye bath. Once washed, the paste can be removed, revealing regions of undyed fabric. This process can then be repeated as many times as necessary to apply more colors. Similar in some ways to the process of woodblock printing.
Zori (草履) – Traditional Japanese shoes worn with women's kimono. They are more formal than geta.
Dressing Tools
Date jime (伊達締め) – A wide, flat strip of fabric used to hold various garments in place. Can be elastic, plain fabric, or even have velcro.
Eri shin (衿芯) – Collar core. For women's kimono, is inserted into the juban collar to keep it stiff and straight.
Himo (紐) – string/cord, a strip of fabric used to hold parts of a kimono outfit in place. Often made of cotton and sold in a generic size in white or pink. But can be made of any material or color and made longer or wider.
Hoseigi (補整着) – Padding used to adjust the body shape. This padding comes in many forms and is worn underneath the nagajuban.
Korin belt (コーリンベルト) – An elastic band with clips on the end used with women's kimono to keep the kimono collar in place.
Koshi himo (腰紐) – hip/waist cord, the himo tied above the hips to create the ohashori. The term may also be used to refer to any himo.
Obi ita (帯板) – Obi board. Can either be inserted into the obi or clipped around the waist before putting the obi on to keep the obi smooth and free of wrinkles. Only used with women's kimono.
Obi makura (帯枕) – Obi pillow. Used to add volume and shape to a musubi and often also used to hold the obi in place. Only used with women's kimono.
Nijuu himo, Sanjuu himo, Yonjuu himo, Gojuu himo (2重紐, 3重紐, 4重紐, 5重紐) – This type of himo is used to tie complicated obi knots. At the center of the himo, the tie splits into multiple parts, either two, three, four, or even five parts. The obi can then be passed through these separate ties to help hold different sections in place. These are popularly used for tying complicate furisode musubi. so that you can thread the obi through the different holes and hold multiple sections of the obi in place. Commonly used for formal furisode obi knots. (It may be hard to imagine through a written description, so I recommend you google the terms to see an image.)
Eri shin (衿芯) – Collar core. For women's kimono, is inserted into the juban collar to keep it stiff and straight.
Himo (紐) – string/cord, a strip of fabric used to hold parts of a kimono outfit in place. Often made of cotton and sold in a generic size in white or pink. But can be made of any material or color and made longer or wider.
Hoseigi (補整着) – Padding used to adjust the body shape. This padding comes in many forms and is worn underneath the nagajuban.
Korin belt (コーリンベルト) – An elastic band with clips on the end used with women's kimono to keep the kimono collar in place.
Koshi himo (腰紐) – hip/waist cord, the himo tied above the hips to create the ohashori. The term may also be used to refer to any himo.
Obi ita (帯板) – Obi board. Can either be inserted into the obi or clipped around the waist before putting the obi on to keep the obi smooth and free of wrinkles. Only used with women's kimono.
Obi makura (帯枕) – Obi pillow. Used to add volume and shape to a musubi and often also used to hold the obi in place. Only used with women's kimono.
Nijuu himo, Sanjuu himo, Yonjuu himo, Gojuu himo (2重紐, 3重紐, 4重紐, 5重紐) – This type of himo is used to tie complicated obi knots. At the center of the himo, the tie splits into multiple parts, either two, three, four, or even five parts. The obi can then be passed through these separate ties to help hold different sections in place. These are popularly used for tying complicate furisode musubi. so that you can thread the obi through the different holes and hold multiple sections of the obi in place. Commonly used for formal furisode obi knots. (It may be hard to imagine through a written description, so I recommend you google the terms to see an image.)
